At SKIN MOLECULE X, we want you to understand why we have chosen the bioactive components we use in our formulations. Below, we will show you how important they are. Read on for more information on collagen, hyaluronic acid, coenzyme Q10, vitamins and minerals, and how they help your skin, hair, nails, and overall well-being.

SKIN

The skin is the largest organ of our body. It consists of different parts including water, proteins, lipids, minerals, and chemical elements. When skin is young, it appears firm, smooth, and radiant; however, over time, changes occur in the structure of the dermis and epidermis due to intrinsic and extrinsic aging processes. Additionally, the density of collagen in the dermis decreases over time, which is associated with a reduction in dermal thickness.

Epidermis – The outer layer: acts as a physical and biological barrier to the external environment, protecting against ultraviolet (UV) radiation and infections.
Dermis – The intermediate layer: is the second, much thicker layer of the skin. This is where collagen is found, and its function is to provide the infrastructure for elastin, which maintains the skin's elasticity, and for hyaluronic acid to retain water. Aging occurs here, before it is visible on the surface (epidermis).
Hypodermis: the fat layer, is the deepest and thickest layer of the skin. Its function is to store fat, protect, and connect the upper layers of the skin (dermis and epidermis) to underlying tissues such as bones and cartilage.

AGING

The skin, being the layer that protects us from the external environment, is exposed to many aging factors, both intrinsic and extrinsic. These cause changes in the structure of the dermis and epidermis, leading to aging, even when the skin is still young and firm. Intrinsic factors are characterized by pale, dry, inelastic skin with fine wrinkles. The characteristics of extrinsically aged skin (mostly UV-induced) include coarse wrinkles, rough texture, mottled pigmentation, and loss of skin elasticity.

Research has shown that collagen levels decrease with aging. Collagen production begins to decline at approximately 25 years of age and accelerates at 40, leading to the inevitable visible signs of aging. It further decreases in women after menopause. Collagen also decreases due to other factors such as UV exposure, smoking, sugar, and pollution. It is known that the human body loses about 1.5% each year.

NUTRITION

Nutrition is a factor that impacts skin physiology. Therefore, good nutritional status is reflected in good skin health. The continuous use of nutritional supplements shows benefits for skin health and can lead to a more youthful appearance.

What are nutricosmetics?

Nutricosmetics are products that act as nutritional supplements to care for natural beauty, especially skin, nails, and hair. They work from within to promote beauty from the inside out. Nowadays, people are very careful about the food they eat, and there is also a growing demand for natural products capable of improving health and beauty.

COLLAGEN

Collagen makes up to 75% of the skin. It is a structural protein of connective tissues (skin, cartilage, tendons, and bones). Collagen is a key component of the skin's structure because it provides firmness and structure to our skin. Collagen can be found in the dermis. Collagen fibers in the dermis provide the infrastructure for elastin, which maintains the skin's elasticity, and the dermis also contains hyaluronic acid to retain moisture.

Collagen is composed of a unique combination of amino acids

Collagen is a triple helix built from three amino acid chains, forming strong fibers that provide structure to tissues. Cells are responsible for collagen production. They use specific amino acids as building blocks for the long chains that coil together into the large collagen triple helix. Then, several helices are organized into strong fibers that provide support to the structural tissue, endowing it with flexibility and the ability to withstand stress.

Collagen Peptides

Collagen peptides are made by dividing the collagen molecule into smaller parts. These parts are called peptides, which in turn are made up of amino acids. Like the initial collagen protein, peptides are characterized by high levels of the following amino acids: glycine, proline, and hydroxyproline, which together account for about 50% of the total collagen molecule. Hydroxyproline is exclusive to collagen and forms stable bonds with other amino acids. These resulting peptides provide unique bioactive properties. Collagen peptides have a molecular weight of less than 5000 Daltons.

Absorption of collagen peptides

Collagen peptides are bioactive and derived from pure collagen. They are easily digested and effectively absorbed by our body, from the gut into the bloodstream, meaning they are highly bioavailable. Bioavailability refers to the quality with which a substance is absorbed into the body when ingested. More than 90% of collagen peptides appear in our bloodstream a few hours after consumption and are effectively delivered to our body. Numerous scientific studies have shown the health benefits of collagen peptides in key areas including aging, joint and bone health, sports nutrition, or our skin.

ANTI-AGING MOLECULES

Hyaluronic acid, coenzyme Q10, vitamin C, and vitamin E are molecules known for their unique anti-aging properties. They contribute to the protection of cells against oxidative stress and work together to protect collagen from free radicals. In addition, they provide the skin's antioxidant defenses and stimulate the production of collagen, hyaluronic acid, and elastin.

Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is another key molecule in our skin care that has a unique ability to retain water and moisturize the skin. HA is found at the periphery of collagen and elastin fibers, where these types of fibers cross. The progressive reduction in the size of HA polymers in the skin occurs as a result of aging, leading to the loss of the main molecule responsible for binding and retaining water molecules in our skin, which causes a loss of hydration. The decrease in HA levels contributes to its dissociation from collagen and elastin and may be involved in the changes observed in aging skin, such as wrinkles, altered elasticity, reduced turgor, and less firm skin.

Coenzyme Q10

Coenzyme Q10 is one of the most powerful antioxidants, capable of stimulating collagen production and inhibiting oxidative stress generated by UVA and UVB rays. Coenzyme Q10 is also capable of protecting the dermal matrix, both in intrinsic and extrinsic aging. Coenzyme Q10 helps maintain a healthy condition and protects against free radicals, which are primarily responsible for cellular aging. With increasing age, the concentration of Q10 in body cells decreases. This leads to premature skin aging.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C, also known as L-ascorbic acid, is a water-soluble vitamin that is naturally present in some foods and available as a dietary supplement. Humans, unlike most animals, cannot synthesize vitamin C endogenously (i.e., our body is not capable of producing it), making it an essential dietary component. Vitamin C is necessary for the biosynthesis of collagen, L-carnitine, and certain neurotransmitters; vitamin C is also involved in protein metabolism. Vitamin C is important for the skin because it contributes to the natural formation of collagen and to healthy-looking skin. It is also a powerful antioxidant that can neutralize and eliminate oxidants such as those found in environmental pollution and UV radiation exposure. It is an important physiological antioxidant and has been shown to regenerate other antioxidants within the body, including alpha-tocopherol (vitamin E).

Vitamin E

Vitamin E is an important antioxidant because it contributes to the protection of cells from oxidative stress and DNA damage. Antioxidants protect cells from the harmful effects of free radicals, which are molecules that do not share an electron. In addition to its activities as an antioxidant, vitamin E is involved in immune function, cell signaling, regulation of gene expression, and other metabolic processes. Furthermore, it helps maintain healthy skin and eyes and strengthens the body's natural defenses against illness and infection. Vitamin E deficiency accelerates skin aging. Science has shown that antioxidant protection is greater when vitamins C and E are combined than when you only take one of them.

Scientific Citations

(1) Asserin, J.; Lati, E.; Shioya, T.; Prawitt, J. The Effect of Oral Collagen Peptide Supplementation on Skin Moisture and the Dermal Collagen Network: Evidence from an Ex Vivo Model and Randomized, Placebo‐controlled Clinical Trials. J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2015, 14 (4), 291–301.

(2) Zhang, S.; Duan, E. Fighting against Skin Aging: The Way from Bench to Bedside. Cell Transplant. 2018, 27 (5), 729–738.

(3) Tobin, D. J. Introduction to Skin Aging. J. Tissue Viability 2017, 26 (1), 37–46.

(4) Varani, J.; Dame, M. K.; Rittie, L.; Fligiel, S. E. G.; Kang, S.; Fisher, G. J.; Voorhees, J. J. Decreased Collagen Production in Chronologically Aged Skin: Roles of Age-Dependent Alteration in Fibroblast Function and Defective Mechanical Stimulation. Am. J. Pathol. 2006, 168 (6), 1861–1868.

(5) Piccardi, N.; Manissier, P. Nutrition and Nutritional Supplementation: Impact on Skin Health and Beauty. Dermatoendocrinol. 2009, 1 (5), 271–274.

(6) Dini, I.; Laneri, S. Nutricosmetics: A Brief Overview. Phyther. Res. 2019, 33 (12), 3054–3063.

(7) Watanabe-Kamiyama, M.; Shimizu, M.; Kamiyama, S.; Taguchi, Y.; Sone, H.; Morimatsu, F.; Shirakawa, H.; Furukawa, Y.; Komai, M. Absorption and Effectiveness of Orally Administered Low Molecular Weight Collagen Hydrolysate in Rats. J. Agric. Food Chem. 2010, 58 (2), 835–841.

(8) Matsuda, N.; Koyama, Y.; Hosaka, Y.; Ueda, H.; Watanabe, T.; Araya, T.; Irie, S.; Takehana, K. Effects of Ingestion of Collagen Peptide on Collagen Fibrils and Glycosaminoglycans in the Dermis. J. Nutr. Sci. Vitaminol. (Tokyo). 2006, 52 (3), 211–215.

(9) Puizina-Ivic, N. Skin Aging. Acta Dermatovenerologica Alp. Panon. Adriat. 2008, 17 (2), 47.

(10) Papakonstantinou, E.; Roth, M.; Karakiulakis, G. Hyaluronic Acid: A Key Molecule in Skin Aging. Dermatoendocrinol. 2012, 4 (3), 253–258.

(11) Ramos-e-Silva, M.; Celem, L. R.; Ramos-e-Silva, S.; Fucci-da-Costa, A. P. Anti-Aging Cosmetics: Facts and Controversies. Clin. Dermatol. 2013, 31 (6), 750–758.

(12) Ganceviciene, R.; Liakou, A. I.; Theodoridis, A.; Makrantonaki, E.; Zouboulis, C. C. Skin Anti-Aging Strategies. Dermatoendocrinol. 2012, 4 (3), 308–319.

(13) Choi, C. M.; Berson, D. S. Cosmeceuticals. In Seminars in cutaneous medicine and surgery; 2006; Vol. 25, pp 163–168.

(14) Burke, K. E. Nutritional Antioxidants. Proced. Cosmet. dermatology Ser. cosmeceuticals, 1st edn. Elsevier, Philadelphia, PA 2005, 125–132.

(15) Nomoto, T.; Iizaka, S. Effect of an Oral Nutrition Supplement Containing Collagen Peptides on Stratum Corneum Hydration and Skin Elasticity in Hospitalized Older Adults: A Multicenter Open-Label Randomized Controlled Study. Adv. Skin Wound Care 2020, 33 (4), 186–191.

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